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Antic Celler de Gràcia: Bulk wine endures as a symbol of sustainability

An establishment in the Barcelona neighborhood keeps the tradition of bulk wine alive, championing the circular economy and small producers.

Interior of a traditional Catalan wine cellar with wine barrels and bottles being filled.
IA

Interior of a traditional Catalan wine cellar with wine barrels and bottles being filled.

Antic Celler de Gràcia, located on Torrent d’en Vidalet street, keeps the tradition of bulk wine alive, offering a sustainable and economical alternative that connects with the neighborhood's past and present.

The image of a dimly lit bodega, with the scent of wine and wooden barrels, evokes memories of a more communal neighborhood life and the pioneering sustainable practice of reusing containers. This ritual remains vibrant at Antic Celler de Gràcia, where bulk wine is presented as a relevant alternative amidst declining per capita consumption worldwide, meeting the sustainability and circular economy needs of the 21st century.
Maintaining a bulk wine cellar requires consistency and technique. Juan Carlos Blanco, the current owner, explains that the barrels are refilled weekly to prevent the wood from drying out. The use of sulfur pastilles burns excess oxygen to prevent oxidation and ensure wine quality. The product primarily comes from Penedès, through the same distributor who worked with the founding family, the Raventós, who opened the cellar 90 years ago on Ciudad Real street.
The cellar prioritizes small winemakers and local cooperatives, aiming to support passionate producers. Currently, they offer 14 varieties of bulk wines, balancing whites, reds, sweet, and dry options. Among the most popular is the dry white wine Gandesa, made from white Grenache, ideal for daily consumption. Sommelier Lucho León also highlights a dry Priorat style, with more structure, perfect for accompanying meats or stews.
Wines for cooking, such as rancio or moscatel, are also popular among locals. However, the star product is the bulk vermouth, made with a historic recipe from the shop. This dry and aromatic vermouth, based on Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel·lo, and Garnacha, with a hint of orange peel, is the establishment's best-seller.
Beyond wine, Antic Celler de Gràcia serves as a community gathering space. The current owners took over the original business, started by Remigio and Vicenç, to prevent an emblematic venue from becoming a soulless shop. In a context of rising rents and challenges for small businesses, this cellar remains a local refuge where customers share stories and recommendations.
Antic Celler de Gràcia demonstrates that bulk wine is a fully viable business. In a world crying out to reduce plastic and return to local sourcing, filling a bottle directly from the barrel is currently a small act of resistance and sustainability.

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