Escudella: Tradition and Avant-Garde at the Girona Gastronomic Forum

Leading figures like Carme Ruscalleda, Toni Massanés, and Josep Roca champion the cultural importance and constant evolution of this classic Catalan dish.

Image of a traditional Catalan escudella (stew) boiling in a cast iron pot, with visible steam.
IA

Image of a traditional Catalan escudella (stew) boiling in a cast iron pot, with visible steam.

Renowned chefs Carme Ruscalleda and Josep Roca, alongside gastronome Toni Massanés, championed the traditional escudella i carn d'olla as a foundational dish during the "Fem la pilota" event at the Girona Gastronomic Forum this Monday.

Chef Carme Ruscalleda was in charge of starting the conference, describing Catalan cuisine as "closely linked to the landscape, eclectic, diverse, gourmet, and very healthy". She stressed that, despite the lack of time among new generations, it is crucial to "form knowledge in relation to what we eat".

"We will not lose traditional Catalan cuisine, but the key is to form knowledge in relation to what we eat and for the Alpha generation to discover everything they have to lose if they do not put cooking and nutrition on the list of important life topics."

Carme Ruscalleda · Chef
Next, the gastronome and general director of the Fundació Alícia, Toni Massanés, took the floor, insisting on the biological predisposition to enjoy escudella due to the pleasure provided by its components. Massanés referenced the theatrical monologue L'escudellòmetre by Santiago Rusiñol, which imagines a utopia where escudella flows from household taps.
Sommelier Josep Roca argued that tradition must be "alive or it will be dead", recalling that "What is tradition was avant-garde at some point". He cited the incorporation of the potato into escudella after the discovery of America as an example, demonstrating the recipe's constant evolution.
This idea of constant evolution was illustrated by his sons, Marc and Martí Roca, who prepared reinterpretations such as Basque-style cod escudella, partridge escudella, and a vegetable broth based on a recipe from their grandmother, Montserrat Fontané. Roca concluded that escudella "is a lifestyle inside a pot".