Friends, family, clients, and colleagues filled the hall to celebrate the career of Rosa Esteva, an 85-year-old prominent figure who, four decades ago, revolutionized the restaurant scene in Barcelona with the opening of her first restaurant, Mordisco, and the subsequent founding of Grupo Tragaluz.
The event, driven by her closest circle, featured the participation of renowned figures from the gastronomic and cultural world. Sommelier Josep Roca, representing the Roca brothers, highlighted her audacity: "Rosa has her stings and guts," he praised, referring to her groundbreaking personality.
In 1987, Rosa Maria Esteva left behind her role as a housewife to open Mordisco, a venue that challenged traditional formalities with informal yet high-quality cuisine and a stylish ambiance, also designed for women who wished to dine alone. This establishment, located in the Eixample district, is about to celebrate its 40th anniversary.
Together with her son Tomás Tarruella, she led Grupo Tragaluz, which grew to employ 1,200 people and operate 26 restaurants with diverse concepts such as El Japonés, Bar Tomate, Negro, or Pez Vela, expanding throughout Spain. Since 2019, the group has Miura Partners as its main partner, although Esteva remains involved with the two Mordisco restaurants.
Although a stroke has affected her speech, her granddaughter Ale Lacour read words on her behalf, emphasizing the importance of "aesthetics, cuisine, imagination, and taking the leap" in her career, forged in decades when talented women were not the norm.
The entrepreneur also thanked Mayor Collboni, who presented her with a commemorative plaque, for providing the venue for the tribute, an event attended by her daughters Sandra and Carla Tarruella.
The event included speeches from designer Javier Mariscal, who praised the tribute during her lifetime, and vintner Álvaro Palacios. Josep Roca expressed his admiration, stating that the success of El Celler de Can Roca was partly possible thanks to the existence of Esteva, with whom they collaborated at the Moo restaurant in the Omm hotel.
The celebration concluded with a toast at the city hall and a subsequent party at Cuines Santa Caterina, where the bar of the legendary Mordisco was recreated.
